What Is Argan Oil?

Argan oil is a plant-based oil cold-pressed from the kernels of the Argania spinosa tree, which grows almost exclusively in the semi-arid regions of Morocco. You will see it listed on ingredient labels as Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, which is the INCI name. INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, the standardised naming system used across the EU and many other markets so that consumers can identify exactly what is in a product, regardless of the brand or country.

The oil itself is a golden-coloured liquid with a characteristic mild, nutty scent in its raw form. In a finished cosmetic formula it blends cleanly and does not leave a heavy or greasy feel on the hair. It has been used in the Maghreb region for centuries, both in food and in traditional skincare. In haircare specifically, it caught serious scientific attention in the early 2000s and has since been the subject of a growing body of peer-reviewed research.

On the INCI list of our conditioner, you will find Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil listed alongside other nourishing oils including Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil (apricot kernel oil), Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil (jojoba oil), and Nigella Sativa Seed Oil (black seed oil). In our sulfate-free shampoo, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil also appears on the ingredient list. It is not present in our standard shampoo or our body wash.

What the Science Says

The benefits of argan oil for hair come from its chemical composition. Here is what that means in plain language.

Fatty acid profile. Argan oil is composed primarily of oleic acid (roughly 43 to 49 percent) and linoleic acid (roughly 29 to 36 percent). These are unsaturated fatty acids, meaning their molecular structure allows them to interact with the protein structure of the hair shaft. A study by Gavazzoni Dias (2015), published in the International Journal of Trichology, confirmed that plant oils rich in these fatty acids can penetrate the hair cortex (the inner layer of the hair strand) and reduce water loss from within the fibre. Reducing that water loss means the hair retains more of its natural moisture, which translates to softer, less brittle strands.

Tocopherols. Argan oil contains high concentrations of tocopherols, particularly gamma-tocopherol and alpha-tocopherol, both of which are forms of vitamin E. Tocopherols are antioxidants, meaning they neutralise free radicals. Free radicals are unstable molecules produced by UV exposure, heat styling, and environmental pollution. They break down the lipid layer on the outside of the hair fibre, which leads to frizz, dullness, and increased breakage over time. Research published by Charrouf and Guillaume (2008) in the European Journal of Lipid Science and Technology documented argan oil's exceptionally high tocopherol content compared to other common plant oils, noting concentrations of around 620 mg per kilogram of oil.

Squalene. Argan oil also contains squalene, a natural lipid (fat-like molecule) that helps smooth the cuticle. The cuticle is the outermost layer of the hair fibre, made up of overlapping scales much like roof tiles. When those scales lie flat, light reflects evenly off the surface and the hair looks shiny. When they are lifted or damaged, light scatters and the hair looks dull. Squalene helps the cuticle scales lie flat.

Friction reduction. A study by Srinivasan et al. (2013) in the Journal of Cosmetic Science measured the effect of various oils on the tribology (the study of friction and wear) of hair fibres. Oils with high unsaturated fatty acid content, including argan oil, measurably reduced the friction coefficient between hair fibres. In practical terms, lower friction means less mechanical damage during brushing and detangling, and less static in dry conditions.

None of these effects are about adding an artificial coating that washes off. The fatty acids interact with the actual structure of the hair fibre. That is what makes argan oil genuinely functional rather than just a marketing term.

Why It Matters for Your Hair

Understanding what is happening at the fibre level helps you understand what to expect when you use a product that contains argan oil.

For dry or coarse hair. Oleic acid has a relatively small molecular weight, which allows it to move past the cuticle and into the cortex. For hair that is dry, chemically treated, or naturally coarse, this means the oil can work where the moisture deficit actually is, inside the fibre, rather than just sitting on top of it.

For fine hair. Linoleic acid has an even smaller molecular size than oleic acid. Products formulated with lighter concentrations of argan oil, or oils with a higher linoleic-to-oleic ratio, tend not to weigh fine hair down. Our sulfate-free shampoo includes argan oil at a level appropriate to a rinse-off format, where the contact time with the hair is shorter and the effect is more about protecting the fibre during cleansing than about deep conditioning.

For colour-treated hair. Oxidative colour processes (the chemistry behind permanent hair dye) cause deliberate structural changes to the hair's protein and lipid layers. That same process leaves hair more porous and more vulnerable to further damage. The antioxidant activity of argan oil's tocopherols is particularly relevant here, as it helps buffer the ongoing oxidative stress that colour-treated hair is exposed to between salon visits.

For heat-styled hair. Heat styling tools operate at temperatures between 150 and 230 degrees Celsius. At those temperatures, the lipid layer of the hair fibre can degrade rapidly. Tocopherols and squalene both contribute to heat protection by stabilising that lipid layer before it is exposed to heat. Applying a conditioner with argan oil before heat styling gives that protective layer a chance to refresh.

Our Position at MyHolyBody

We chose Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil because it is one of the most well-documented functional oils in cosmetic science. The founder's principle when building these formulas was straightforward: every ingredient needs a job to do, and that job needs to be backed by evidence we are confident standing behind.

We are transparent about exactly where argan oil appears and where it does not. It is in our conditioner and our sulfate-free shampoo. It is not in our standard shampoo or body wash. If you are specifically looking for argan oil in your haircare routine, those are the two products where you will find it on the INCI list.

We also want to be clear about concentration and format. A rinse-off product like a shampoo will always have shorter contact time with the hair than a leave-in or a conditioner. Our conditioner is where argan oil has the greatest opportunity to do its job, sitting on the hair while you detangle, then rinsing away and leaving behind the fatty acids and tocopherols that have already had time to interact with the fibre.

We do not use argan oil as a label claim. We use it because the composition is right, the research supports it, and it fits the purpose of each formula it appears in.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does argan oil actually penetrate the hair shaft, or does it just sit on top? 

Research, including work by Gavazzoni Dias (2015), shows that oils rich in unsaturated fatty acids like oleic and linoleic acid can penetrate into the hair cortex. This is different from heavier saturated oils, which tend to remain on the surface. Penetration depth depends on the molecular size of the fatty acids and the porosity of the hair.

Is argan oil suitable for all hair types? 

Yes, though the way you use it matters. Fine hair benefits from lighter application formats, such as a rinse-off conditioner or a shampoo that contains it at appropriate levels. Coarser or drier hair types can generally handle leave-in formats or more concentrated doses without weighing the hair down.

Which MyHolyBody products contain argan oil? 

Argan oil (listed as Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil) appears in our conditioner and our sulfate-free shampoo. It is not present in our standard shampoo or body wash. You can always verify this on the INCI list printed on each product.

Does argan oil protect hair from heat damage? 

The tocopherols and squalene in argan oil contribute to protecting the hair's lipid layer from oxidative and thermal stress. This does not mean an argan-oil-containing conditioner replaces a dedicated heat protectant, but it does mean those protective compounds are present and active when you style with heat after using the conditioner.

Is argan oil safe to use on colour-treated hair? 

Yes. Argan oil is a gentle ingredient with no known interaction with colour chemistry in the hair fibre. The antioxidant activity of its tocopherols is particularly relevant for colour-treated hair, which tends to have a more porous and oxidatively stressed structure after the colouring process.

Sources

1. Gavazzoni Dias, M.F. (2015). Hair cosmetics: an overview. International Journal of Trichology, 7(1), 2-15. 

2. Charrouf, Z. and Guillaume, D. (2008). Argan oil: occurrence, composition and impact on human health. European Journal of Lipid Science and Technology, 110(7), 632-636. 

3. Srinivasan, G. et al. (2013). Measurement of friction and lubrication of human hair using atomic force microscopy. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 64(3), 183-196. 

4. EU Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, which governs ingredient labelling and INCI naming requirements across European markets. 

5. Ando, H. et al. (2012). Squalene and its relationship to hair and skin lipid composition. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 34(1), reviewed in context of plant-oil derived squalene fractions.